Carolyn Pajamas
Pattern: Carolyn Pajamas by Closet Core Patterns
Pattern Size: 2
Pattern View: C
My Measurements (current): Bust 85cm; Waist 71cm; Hips 83cm
Pattern Adjustments: Dropped underarm; redrafted sleeves with 4cm increase for underarm adjustment; tapered increase of 7.5cm to shorts side seam
Fabric: Liberty of London Tania Lawn from The Fabric Store
Piping: Viscose Crepe Midnight Navy from Miss Maude
Label: Dream BIG, Collaboration between Fabric Drop and Kylie and the Machine
Machines: Brother Galaxie and 3034D Lock Overlocker (Bother)
Another long term WIP finished! I started these PJ’s in 2018, they were completely sewn up but on first wear (and that fun period of my life where my body drastically changed) the sleeves and shorts were just a bit too snug for my liking. Who knew this would be the beginning of when I started altering future makes for a larger bicep (by dropping the underarm seam line down) and although not until recent, the beginning of my transition from standard draft legs to wide leg adjustment (adjusting the leg only, not the waist, the joys of being petite but an “athlete”). These PJ’s sat “finished” for four years until I decided this year to tackle the growing pile of makes requiring adjustments and/or finishing.
The fabric was purchased on sale from the Fabric Store (Auckland) for $18/m, which for Liberty fabric is a bargain. I absolutely love this fun print, very out of my “comfort zone” but one I will happily gravitate too. I decided to cut view C in size 2 filling my summer PJ void. It was a very straight forward sew, but I do have a few comments on the instructions.
First off the instructions are well laid out, clear and even provide tips and information on how to grade a seam, sew a french seam, stitch in the ditch, understitch and insert piping. I appreciate the thought that has gone into including these techniques, and they are a fantastic reference for any sewer. My biggest frustration with the instructions was with the collar construction, and when I shared this at the time on Instagram, I got a lot of comments agreeing. I can understand the concept as the top does not have a collar stand as a shirt would, but sewing the collar sides to not have top stitching and them maneuver to top stitch the centre of collar seemed a little pointless for the outcome. If I was to make these PJ’s again I would still press the collar centre seam, leaving the collar side seams available for facing attachment, but rather than going through multi steps to attach the collar, I would just top stitch from end to end, giving the same finish but in fewer steps.
Adjustment One - The sleeves were a little snug so I unpicked the existing sleeves and redrafted and cut new pattern pieces. I marked 4cm below the sleeve attachment seam on the top and cut while grading the new sleeve line. Using a flexible ruler I measured the new sleeve circumference, and using the original sleeve pattern piece made appropriate adjustments so the sleeve circumference was equal to that on the top. Re-sewed and took advantage of any left over piping disregarded in the unpicking process and cut new cuffs from the original sleeves to cut down waste.
Adjustment Two - The short waist fitted perfectly, unfortunately (for my petite frame, but fortunately for competing) my quads have grown with rowing. Without redrafting the shorts pattern completely, and to cut down on fabric waste, the simple solution was to cut a triangle, tapering the leg side seam from the waist to the cuff. The bottom increase was 7.5cm excluding seam allowance. Rather than cutting new cuffs, I sewed in a little expander using the original sleeve cuffs. Overall a simple solution that thankfully is hard to notice with the busy print.
Overall I am really happy with the outcome of the PJ’s, a little bit of a journey to get to finally be able to wear them (and not quite the right season, sigh). Taking the time to make needed adjustments rather than just disregarding the garment (yes I have done that) has allowed me to find a new joy in slow making, and conscience making. I am actively trying to reduce my impact and live more sustainably, and by adjusting what now doesn’t work to a new lease on life has provided me the confidence to apply this aspect of making to other areas of life, just because it takes time, and a little brain power should not prevent you from exploring.
