Sewing Skirts – Where to Start?
Today we are going to be looking at skirt sewing and where to start. There are two routes you can go with skirt sewing, draft your own block, and adapt to your desired style. Or pick a pattern, indie or the big four (or as I like to refer to them, the four families), and make any adjustments required based on your measurements/style, or sew as is. Today we are going to be looking at the latter, and more importantly the different styles of skirt sewing patterns and how to pick a pattern that ticks all your boxes.
The first place to start is style. Skirts come in a range of styles, with the ability to be merged, manipulated and refined. These can be (but not limited too):
Image courtesy of Irmairma
Paired with style is fit: straight, asymmetric, a-line etc.
Pocket type: inseam, visible, patch, no pockets (pockets can always be added!)
And sitting position: high-waisted, natural waist, low hip etc. If you are worried about fit around the tummy, maybe try a high-waisted skirt that flares out (through pleats or gathers).
Once you have picked a general style (or two, or three), the next factor to consider is length: midi, mini, knee-length, maxi etc. This can personal preference, or biologically driven. I am long torso-ed, but short legged which generally leads me to shorten my skirt patterns. Remember, the pattern does not have to 100% match your length preference!
When it comes to cutting out, pattern pieces will have an indicator line where you can lengthen or shorten your pattern piece. Why do I need to do it at this point? And not just cut off or extend at the hem. This indicator line is a “stable point” in the pattern, any changes you make at this point will not affect the (intended) shape that the designer has drafted the pattern for. For example if you extend the pattern at the hem for a tulip shaped skirt (following the curve of the pattern), you will not only be adding length, but also reducing ease at the bottom of the skirt (and in the extreme case, ability to move freely).
Last but not least, waistband and closure type. These go hand in hand and can be altered.
Common forms are: zippers, elasticated waist and buttons.
Checklist for selecting a pattern that fits your preferences
Style
Fit
Pockets
Sitting Position
Length
Waistband and Closures
“Always pick something you WANT to wear, never be put off by skill level, it may just take a little longer to sew, but at the end of the day you will wear it (and also learn some new skills along the way).”
