Should I sew a muslin?
Firstly, what is a muslin? It is a mock-up of your garment, typically made from a muslin/calico fabric (you can draw and mark up on it). A muslin allows you the ability to adjust, work out fit issues and also give the opportunity for personal design changes (such as adding in pockets). Muslins are not restricted to calico, wearable muslins, using a fabric similar to your final garment, allow for a “finished” item, but it may just have a few fit issues (ironically some of my favourite dress’ are wearable muslins).
Whenever I suggest making a muslin first to my students, the first reaction is always distain. Muslins take time, and if you are itching to get your project through your machine so you can enjoy it, a roadblock to this.
Muslins ensure fit, fit for your body! And most commonly in my students case, are a great way to practice skills (zips, pockets, setting in sleeves) and see where care needs to be taken before cutting and sewing their good fabric (we always use bright coloured top thread and bobbin colours so stitching is visible).
So should I sew muslin? It is a very personal question, if you are unfamiliar to the pattern or the pattern designer, I would say YES. This allows for you to become familiar with the pattern and instructions, familiar with the designers block (base pattern the design was adapted from) and also allow you the freedom to make any changes you want to make.
A few tips to allow for an enjoyable process
- Use a fabric similar in weave, weight, drape and elasticity to that of the final garment
- Be consistent with your seam allowance, I have had many students who have changed their seam allowance from muslin to final and it has led to more fitting issues
- You don’t have to sew the full garment! Focus on the body and key elements (and in the case of multiples, you only need to do one… most of the time). Key elements can include: waistbands; sleeves; collars; buttons; zips; final hem length etc.
- Always take note of changes made (to instructions and your muslin) and also any areas of difficulty (and how you problem solved it)
Sewing is an extremely rewarding skill, and it is easy to get caught up in the excitement of a finished garment, but by taking the time to ensure the garment fits, you will find a sense of achievement, joy and satisfaction.
